With so many fire extinguishers to choose from, selecting the proper one for your home can be a task. Everyone should have at least one fire extinguisher at home, but it's just as important to ensure you have the proper type of fire extinguisher. Fire protection experts recommend one for the kitchen, one for the garage and workshop.

Location, location, location! Having a fire extinguisher is one thing, having it handy in case of an emergency, is another.

It is recommended to have at least one fire extinguisher on each floor of your home. Also, keep them in plain sight and no more than five feet above the floor. Do not put them in closets because that will cost you valuable time when you are reaching for it. And even though a fire extinguisher may not match your décor, do not put it behind curtains or drapes.

The most important places to have a fire extinguisher are in areas that are more susceptible to fire. These areas are the kitchen and the garage.

Kitchen: According to U.S. Fire Administration statistics, the kitchen is the place where fires most often start. If you have a fire extinguisher in the kitchen, most grease fires can be contained. Do not put the fire extinguisher near the stove as it will be out of your reach if the fire is on the stovetop. You should not have to risk burns just to reach your extinguisher. Therefore, the best place to put the fire extinguisher is by the door of the kitchen so you have easy access to it.

Garage: It is a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher here because in most homes, this is the place we use as storage. Often, leftover paints, solvents, and building materials will be piled up without a second thought. Again, the best location to mount the fire extinguisher is by the door.

Inspect fire extinguishers at least once a month (more often in severe environments).
Fire extinguisher maintenance is important for everyone’s safety.

You must ensure that:

• The extinguisher is not blocked by equipment, coats or other objects that could interfere with access in an emergency.
• The pressure is at the recommended level. On extinguishers equipped with a gauge (such as that shown on the right), the needle should be in the green zone - not too high and not too low.
• The nozzle or other parts are not hindered in any way.
• The pin and tamper seal (if it has one) are intact.
• There are no dents, leaks, rust, chemical deposits and/or other signs of abuse/wear. Wipe off any corrosive chemicals, oil, gunk etc. that may have deposited on the extinguisher.

Some manufacturers recommend shaking your dry chemical extinguishers once a month to prevent the powder from settling/packing.

Fire extinguishers should be pressure tested (a process called hydrostatic testing) after a number of years to ensure that the cylinder is safe to use. Consult your owner's manual, extinguisher label or the manufacturer to see when yours may need such testing.

If the extinguisher is damaged or needs recharging, replace it immediately!

IMPORTANT: Recharge all extinguishers immediately after use regardless of how much they were used.

How it Works
At the top of the cylinder, there is a smaller cylinder filled with compressed gas. A release valve acts as a locking mechanism and prevents this gas from escaping. When you pull the safety pin and squeeze the lever, the lever pushes on an actuating rod which presses the valve down to open a passage to the nozzle. The compressed gas is released, applying a downward pressure on the fire-extinguishing material. This pushes the material out the nozzle with high amounts of pressure. Although the temptation is to aim the extinguisher at the flames, the proper way to use the extinguisher is to aim it directly at the fuel. Before using your fire extinguisher, be sure to read the instructions before it's too late. Although there are many different types of fire extinguishers, all of them operate in a similar manner. A typical fire extinguisher contains 10 seconds of extinguishing power. This could be less if it has already been partially discharged. Always read the instructions that come with the fire extinguisher beforehand and become familiarized with its parts. It is highly recommended by fire prevention experts that you get hands-on training before operating a fire extinguisher. Most local fire departments offer this service.

Once the fire is out, don't walk away! Watch the area for a few minutes in case it re-ignites. Recharge the extinguisher immediately after using it.

Fire extinguishers are divided into four categories, based on different types of fires. Each fire extinguisher also has a numerical rating that serves as a guide for the amount of fire the extinguisher can handle. The higher  the number, the more firefighting power.  

Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (green triangle) Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease, and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (red square) Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit  breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive. Geometric symbol (blue circle) Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only. Geometric symbol (Yellow Decagon) Class K fire extinguishers are for fires that involve cooking oils, trans-fats, or fats in cooking appliances and are typically found in restaurant and cafeteria kitchens. Geometric symbol (black hexagon)

Fire needs fuel,  oxygen, and heat in order to burn. In simple terms, fire extinguishers remove one of these elements by applying an agent that either cools the burning fuel, or removes or displaces the surrounding oxygen.

Fire extinguishers are filled with water or a smothering material, such as CO2. By pulling out the safety pin and depressing the lever at the top of the cylinder (the body of the extinguisher), this material is released by high amounts of pressure.

When selecting the appropriate type of fire extinguisher, it is important to think about extinguishing agents. Each class of fire is best fought by a specific extinguishing agent. You will find a color-coded box on your fire extinguisher identifying which classes of fire it can be used for, and the type of fire extinguishing agent it contains.

The following is a list of commonly used fire extinguishing systems and their corresponding classes of fire. The classes are indicated in parentheses such as (A, B, C):

Multi-Purpose Dry Chemical (A, B, C)
A dry chemical agent called mono ammonium phosphate. The chemical is non-conductive and can be mildly corrosive if moisture is present. In order to avoid corrosion, it is necessary to scrub and thoroughly cleanup the contacted area once the fire is out. A dry chemical fire extinguisher is usually used in schools, general offices, hospitals, homes, etc.

Regular Dry Chemical (B, C)
A dry chemical agent called sodium bicarbonate. It is non-toxic, non-conductive and non-corrosive. It is easy to cleanup, requiring only vacuuming, sweeping or flushing with water. Extinguishers with sodium bicarbonate are usually used in residential kitchens, laboratories, garages, etc.

Carbon Dioxide (B, C)
Carbon dioxide removes oxygen to stop a fire but has limited range. It is environmentally friendly and leaves no residue, so cleanup is unnecessary. Extinguishers with carbon dioxide are usually used in contamination-sensitive places such as computer rooms, labs, food storage areas, processing plants, etc.

Halotron (A, B, C)
A vaporizing liquid that is ozone friendly and leaves no residue. Because it requires no cleanup, fire extinguishers with halotron are ideal for computer rooms, telecommunication areas, theaters, etc.

Foam (A, B)
Foam floats on flammable liquids to tame the fire and helps prevent reflashes. To cleanup the affected area, it must be washed away and left to evaporate. Fire extinguishers with foam are usually used in garages, homes, vehicles, workshops, etc.

Purple K Dry Chemical (B, C)
A dry chemical called potassium bicarbonate. It is non-conductive and non-corrosive. Clean up requires vacuuming, sweeping or flushing with water. Extinguishers with potassium bicarbonate are usually used in military facilities, oil companies, vehicles, etc.

Water (A)
The most common agent is water; however, it cannot be used for class B or C fires because it is conductive. Water-based fire extinguishers are usually used in stockrooms, schools, offices, etc.

Wet Chemical fire extinguishers (K)
The potassium acetate based agent discharges as a fine mist which forms a soapy foam that suppresses any vapors and steam or the risk of fire reflash as it extinguishes the fire. Class K fire extinguishers can usually be found in commercial cooking areas such as restaurants and cafeterias.

* Dry chemicals, CO2 and halon can be used on Class A fires, but may not be effective on their own. They need to be supplemented with water.

** Halon extinguishers are no longer made but some may still be in use. Dangerous gases are formed when halon is used to put out fires. Wear proper respiratory equipment, particularly in enclosed spaces. After use, do not allow anyone to enter the area until it has been well ventilated.

Whether driving, flying or sitting in your home, you are exposed to carbon monoxide.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is slightly lighter than air. It is toxic to humans and animals when encountered in higher concentrations, although it is also produced in normal animal metabolism in low quantities, and is thought to have some normal biological functions. In the atmosphere it is short lived and spatially variable.

The most common symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may resemble other types of poisonings and infections, including symptoms such as headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, fatigue, and a feeling of weakness. Affected families often believe they are victims of food poisoning. Infants may be irritable and feed poorly. Neurological signs include confusion, disorientation, visual disturbance and seizures.

Some descriptions of carbon monoxide poisoning include retinal hemorrhages, and an abnormal cherry-red blood hue. In most clinical diagnoses these signs are seldom noticed. One difficulty with the usefulness of this cherry-red effect is that it corrects, or masks, what would otherwise be an unhealthy appearance, since the chief effect of removing deoxygenated hemoglobin is to make an asphyxiated person appear more normal, or a dead person appear more lifelike, similar to the effect of red colorants in embalming fluid. The "false" or physiologic red-coloring effect in anoxic CO-poisoned tissue is related to the meat-coloring commercial use of carbon monoxide, discussed below.

Exposures to carbon monoxide may cause significant damage to the heart and central nervous system. Carbon monoxide may have severe adverse effects on the fetus of a pregnant woman.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is the most common type of fatal air poisoning in many countries. Carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, but highly toxic. It combines with hemoglobin to produce carboxyhemoglobin, which is ineffective for delivering oxygen to bodily tissues. Concentrations as low as 667 ppm may cause up to 50% of the body's hemoglobin to convert to carboxyhemoglobin. A level of 50% carboxyhemoglobin may result in seizure, coma, and fatality. In the United States, the OSHA limits long-term workplace exposure levels above 50 ppm.

In closed environments, the concentration of carbon monoxide can easily rise to lethal levels. On average, 170 people in the United States die every year from carbon monoxide produced by non-automotive consumer products. However, according to the Florida Department of Health, "every year more than 500 Americans die from accidental exposure to carbon monoxide and thousands more across the U.S. require emergency medical care for non-fatal carbon monoxide poisoning" These products include malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances such as furnaces, ranges, water heaters, and gas and kerosene room heaters; engine-powered equipment such as portable generators; fireplaces; and charcoal that is burned in homes and other enclosed areas. The American Association of Poison Control Centers (AAPCC) reported 15,769 cases of carbon monoxide poisoning resulting in 39 deaths in 2007. In 2005, the CPSC reported 94 generator-related carbon monoxide poisoning deaths. Forty-seven of these deaths were known to have occurred during power outages due to severe weather, including Hurricane Katrina. Still others die from carbon monoxide produced by non-consumer products, such as cars left running in attached garages. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that several thousand people go to hospital emergency rooms every year to be treated for carbon monoxide poisoning.

Pilots, be sure to inspect the CO detector in the aircraft for currency and activation. When driving, crack a window for ventilation and have a CO detector installed in your home.

For any members who need to get current on their Safety Briefing before their regular meeting, missed the meeting, any CAP activity, or used up all of the safety briefings that National has put out, there is a quick solution to that.

Just go to the Ohio Wing web site scroll down to Safety (on the left hand side of the page) click on that  and you will see the link, click that and it will bring up a briefing for you to read, answer the questions and submit, it will then be recorded and you will again be current.(You must sign in with your CAP ID)

Remember if you are NOT CURRENT you MAY NOT participate in any CAP functions until CURRENCY is met.

Also if you are not Safety Current, E-Services will automatically remove your name from the Flight Release Officer (FRO) and Incident Commander (IC) lists posted in WMIRS and you MAY NOT serve in either capacity until you are again safety current.

Any questions please contact myself or Lt Col Yarbrough (Asst OHWG/SE)

SAFETY BRIEFING TORNADOES - Part 2

Tornadoes are very common in many parts of the country, and they can occur anywhere, and in any season of the year. They are most common in the Midwest in the summer. Following are some helpful tips about these potent storms.

PREPARATION:

 I. Keep an emergency stock of tools in the safest place to wait out a tornado. These might  include:

          (a) flashlights and fresh supply of batteries

          (b) crowbar, hammer, pick, shovel, pliers, screwdriver, small hydraulic jacks

          (c) can you think of other items?

 2. Mobile home occupants should have their homes professionally tied down.

 3. Bring portable furniture, equipment, and pets inside on a day when thunderstorms are expected.

 IF TORNADO WARNING IS ISSUED:

 1. Stay inside your home.

 2. Immediately go to the lowest level in the building, preferably a basement. Seek out an interior hallway or small interior room away from windows.

 3. Crouch under a heavy table, desk, bench, etc.

 4. If there is no suitable heavy furniture, crouch and brace yourself against an interior doorway or corner, where the structure is stronger.

 5. Leave a mobile home before the storm hits and go promptly to a community shelter.

 6. In a store or office building, don't stampede toward the exits. Move away from windows, and generally stay on the same floor. Do NOT use the elevator. Crouch under the heaviest piece of furniture you can find.

 7. On foot, go inside the nearest sturdy building. If there is no time to enter a building then crouch next to one.

 8. If there are no sturdy buildings nearby then lie flat in the nearest ditch, ravine, or culvert. Cover your head with your hands and arms. Protect yourself from flying debris.

 9. In a vehicle, do NOT try to outrun the tornado. Leave the vehicle and follow the above directions.

AFTER A TORNADO:

 1. Treat the injured to the extent you have been trained. Remember the Civil Air Patrol prohibition against coming into contact with the body fluids of others.

 2. Call for professional medical assistance, as appropriate.

 3. Do NOT attempt to move severely injured persons unless they are in immediate danger of further injury, which can be alleviated by moving them

 4. Use phones only to report true emergencies.

 5. Do NOT use candles, matches, or fire in any form in case there is a gas leak.

 6. Rely on flashlights.

 7. Call trained technicians if utility lines are ruptured.

 8. Use battery-powered radios for information and instructions.

 9. Wear heavy shoes and gloves for walking over and removing glass and debris.

 10. Do not exert yourself, and spare yourself needless injury, and work in the company of capable adults, in case you need help or assistance.